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What’s The Deal With…?

Surf Technique Deep Dive

Patience is key. Watch the set patterns for a few minutes. Look for the peak—the spot where the wave is starting to break first. Position yourself just inside of it. Don’t just paddle for the first wave; wait for your turn. It’s about respect and reading the ocean. Going for a closeout just because it’s yours wastes a good peak. Sometimes the best move is to let the frothing pack go for one and be ready for the next, cleaner wave.

If you’re surfing where it’s proper cold or over sharp reef, they’re non-negotiable, mate. Booties keep your feet warm and give you grip on slippery rocks, while protecting from urchins and reef cuts. Gloves keep your hands functional—you can’t paddle if your fingers are numb! The key is finding a balance between warmth, flexibility, and a thin-enough palm so you can still feel your board. They might feel weird at first, but they unlock sessions you’d otherwise have to skip.

Start with a clean deck, free of old gunk. For a fresh board, lay down a solid basecoat in small circles; this is your foundation. Then, for your session, apply a topcoat of the right temp wax using those classic side-to-side strokes. Don’t go too smooth—you want those grippy bumps, known as wax bumps or peaks. Focus on where your feet go: near the tail and up the center. No need to slather the whole thing, just create texture for your toes to lock into.

Surf Lingo Explained

Live the lifestyle with aloha. Dive into surf history—read about Duke, Miki Dora, and Gerry Lopez. Support your local shapers and surf shops. Listen to the stories of the elders in your lineup. Enjoy the simple things: the dawn patrol coffee, the post-session debrief with your mates, and the respect for the ocean. It’s about community, respect for tradition, and sharing the stoke. The culture is in the vibe you bring to the beach every single day.

A point break is a wave that breaks along a rocky point or headland, often peeling perfectly in one direction for a long, long ride. Think Malibu or Jeffreys Bay. The swell wraps around the point, creating a smooth, lined-up wall. They’re the ultimate for logging turns and getting into a rhythm. Crowds can be heavy because the wave is so predictable and quality. Paddling out usually means a long trek around the point. Pure, classic surfing rhythm on a point is pure magic.

For sure, it’s one of the biggest talking points. PU/PE boards have a more noticeable, springy flex. This can give a sensation of being propelled out of a turn, adding power. Epoxy constructions are typically stiffer. This stiffness translates to a super direct, instant response off the top and in snaps, which some surfers love. It’s not better or worse—it’s feel. Some say PU has more “give” and feedback, while epoxy is all about precision and speed. Your surfing style will pick a favorite.