The Art of Surfing

You can’t just stand there! On a foamy or a longboard, speed comes from walking the board and using the whole wave face. Pump down the line by shifting your weight from nose to tail, and use big, carving turns to redirect the energy. Find the sweet spot on the wave where it’s steepest. It’s less about frantic wiggling and more about smooth, flowing movements.

This is the big leap! It starts with paddle power. You need the strength and technique to match the speed of a pitching wave. Practice angling your take-off; don’t just paddle straight in. Point your nose toward the shoulder as you pop up. Commit! The worst wipeout is better than hesitating and getting caught in the “washing machine.“ Start on smaller, crumbling waves to build confidence. It’s a mental game as much as a physical one—go for it with stoke!

Ditch the obsession with ripping turns and focus on the foundation: your pop-up and positioning. A smooth, consistent pop-up sets you up for everything else. More importantly, learn to read the ocean—watch the sets, identify the peak, and understand where the energy is. Being in the right spot, the “pocket,“ is 90% of the battle. Master these basics before you even think about hitting the lip. It’s all about wave knowledge and a solid stance, brah.

That flailing arm is all about balance and core engagement. Practice your pop-up on land, focusing on bringing both feet under you in one smooth motion while keeping your eyes up and your hands light. Imagine you’re springing into a low athletic stance, not doing a push-up. A strong, stable core is your secret weapon for a clean, controlled stand-up every time.