All Articles

The Surf Bag: Your Board’s Best Friend on the Road and at Home

The Mana of the Wave: He‘e Nalu in Ancient Hawai‘i

The Ripper’s Code: What It Really Means to Be a Skilled Surfer

How Billabong Rode the Wave of Surf Culture from Garage Stitch to Global Staple

Lineup Lingo: Why Snaking Makes You a Kook Before You Even Paddle Out

Reef-Safe Rays: Why Your Sunscreen Choices Matter for the Ocean

From Redwood to Resin: The Foam That Changed Surfing Forever

The Dawn of the Shortboard: How a Few Innovators Changed Surfing Forever

The Fight to Save a Perfect Left: Offshore Drilling and the Soul of a Wave

The Unseen Bond: The Leash and the Dance of the Zen Stance

The Legacy of Surfer Magazine: Ink, Salt, and the Soul of the Stoke

Tunnels Reef: Where the Garden Isle Holds Its Deepest Secret

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Legendary Surf Spots

For sure! Second Point kicks in on a bigger swell, offering a faster, more hollow section that’s great for turns. Third Point, further down, is a more localized, heavier wave that really walls up. It’s for more experienced surfers when the swell is pumping. Then there’s Surfrider Beach, the beach break right out front, which can be fun for beginners when the points are too crowded. Each spot has its own character and crew.

Go for a leash that’s roughly the same length as your board, maybe a touch longer for bigger, more powerful waves. A shortboard around 6ft needs a 6ft leash. If you’re charging overhead waves, adding 1-2 feet gives you more separation from your board during heavy wipeouts. Too long, and it becomes a tangly mess; too short, and it can snap or yank your board back at you. It’s about matching the leash to your wave energy and board size for a smooth, safe session.

As you start charging harder and trying airs, your board matters. You’ll likely want to move to a high-performance shortboard with more rocker for tighter turns and better control in the pocket. Think about a quad or thruster setup for speed and hold. A good pair of surf-specific fins can make a huge difference in responsiveness. And don’t forget the rubber—a grippy deck pad can give you the confidence for those critical snaps and landings. It’s about finding equipment that becomes an extension of your movement.

Surfboard Evolution

Hit up your local shaper or a good shop and have a chat! Tell them about the waves you usually surf and what you’re riding now. For most people, a mid-length (like a 7’0” egg) or a modern fish is the perfect gateway. They’re user-friendly and instantly rewarding. Don’t be afraid to demo or buy secondhand to get a feel. The goal is to add a new flavor to your surfing, not replace your daily driver. Just get one and feel the glide!

To progress, you gotta push your comfort zone in small steps. Pick one thing per session: tighter rail carves, generating speed in flat sections, or a new entry for a re-entry. Surf different boards; a fish can teach you flow. Watch better surfers in the water. Don’t fear the wipeout—it means you’re trying. Remember, style is everything; make it look smooth, not forced.

It’s always firing somewhere, brah! The dry season (Dec-Apr) brings offshore winds and clean conditions to the Pacific coast, especially in the north. It’s the most consistent time for good waves. The wet season (May-Nov) brings bigger SW swells, turning spots like Pavones and Dominical into heavy, world-class dream machines. The Caribbean side, like at Salsa Brava, goes off during the northern winter. Basically, you can chase barrels here 365 days a year—just pick your coast and your preferred wave size.