All Articles

When the Ocean Blesses You: The Pure Stoke of a Barrel Ride

The Unbreakable Mind: Layne Beachley’s Blueprint for Surfing Dominance

Living the Van Life: The Ultimate Surfer’s Odyssey

The Raw Soul of Makua: Surfing Kauai’s North Shore Reef Break

The Two Coasts: East Versus West in the Great American Surf Stoke-Off

The Art of Keeping Your Rubber Alive: Wetsuit Care for the Long Haul

The Philosophy of the Ding: Why Every Scar Tells a Story

Catching Stoke with the Whole Crew: Family Surf Adventures at Playa Guiones

The Foil That Set Us Free: How Rocker and Rail Unlocked the Vertical World

The Baja Sur Sweet Spot: Timing Your Desert Point Dream

The Rise of the Baggy: Why Looser Boardshorts Rule the Lineup

The Tale of the Travel-Ready Thread: How One Boardshort Redefined the Road Trip

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Surf Lingo Explained

Only after you can consistently catch waves, pop up with stability, and ride straight toward the beach in the whitewater with control. Turning requires you to shift your weight onto your rails, which is a more advanced balance act. Start on a gentle, crumbling section of whitewater: gently press down on your toes or heels to see how the board responds. Don’t force it. The turn will come naturally as you get more comfortable moving on the wave. Rushing to slash like Kelly is a surefire way to eat it.

Uluwatu was the gateway to the Bukit Peninsula’s wave riches. Early explorers in the 70s found a left-hand reef break with multiple sections, offering everything from grinding barrels to open-face carves. Its discovery unlocked Bali’s potential as a surf paradise, blending world-class waves with incredible culture. Paddling out through the cave at low tide is a rite of passage, and the sunset sessions here are pure magic.

For that Curren-esque soul, you want point breaks with long, peeling walls, man. Think Rincon in California, the wave Tom famously dominated. Or head to Hossegor, France, where he spent years. For an adventure, chase points in Costa Rica like Pavones or head to remote Peru. These waves offer the rhythm and canvas for drawing lines, not just airs. It’s about the glide, the trim, and finding that perfect, uncrowded shoulder to yourself.

Legendary Surf Spots

Forget your summer shorty; you’re suiting up in a 5/4mm or thicker wetsuit with hood, boots, and gloves to battle the icy Pacific. The board is a specialized gun, often 9 feet and way up, built for speed and control on massive faces. A modern inflatable vest (PFD) is non-negotiable for safety. Plus, many riders now use earplugs to prevent surfers’ ear and a high-quality leash that can handle the incredible pull of a giant wave. It’s all about survival and performance.

Having a burner refers to an absolutely epic wave that you nailed—a ride that was so good it stays with you. That feeling fuels your mood for days. You’ll be replaying that section you smashed or that barrel you slipped into, and it keeps the stoke tank full. One burner can turn a whole week around. It’s the wave you’ll be telling stories about for seasons to come.

Size matters, but it’s not just about height. Fin size (often based on your weight) affects the amount of hold and drive. Too small, and you’ll feel sketchy and slide out. Too large, and the board can feel stiff and tracky, resisting quick direction changes. Most manufacturers have weight charts—use them as a starting point. Your style matters too: a more aggressive surfer might size up for control, while a flowy surfer might size down for looseness.