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The Sumba Left: A Journey to the Edge of the Surfing World

Pipeline Showdown: Slater and Florence Trade Barrels at the 2025 Masters

Keeping the Stoke Alive: Family Surf Vacations That Work for Everyone

The Art of the Bottom Turn: Why It’s the Core of Surf Camp Instruction

Riding the Reefs of Ha’ena: The Soul of Kauai’s North Shore

The Soul of Surfing: Why We Chase the Unseen

The Pit, the Chamber, the Exit: Finding the Line Beyond the Barrel

The Sunscreen Revolution: How Surfing Changed the Way We Protect the Ocean

Learning to Read the Ocean’s Language

The Surf Tribe: How Shared Stoke Builds the Ultimate Wave Network

The Unsung Hero: Understanding Surfboard Volume and Why It Matters

The Sacred Wood: How the ‘Olo and ‘Alaia Shaped Ancient Hawaiian Wave Riding

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Mastering the Waves

The pop-up is that magic moment you go from paddling to standing. But it starts with the paddle-in! Your final few strokes must be explosive to match the wave’s speed. As you feel the lift, plant your hands flat by your ribs in one smooth motion, then spring your feet under you. If your paddle was weak or late, you’ll miss the wave or nosedive. A powerful, timed paddle gives you the momentum and stability for a clean, fluid stand-up.

Dude, it’s everything! The bottom turn is your launch pad. It’s the first real turn you do after dropping in, where you redirect that downward energy from the wave face back up towards the lip. Without a solid one, you’re just going straight, wasting all the wave’s power. It sets your line for the whole ride, generating speed and setting you up for your next maneuver, whether it’s a cutback or hitting the lip. Master this, and you unlock the whole wave.

Totally, dude! Every bit counts. Picking up trash on your way back from a session, choosing eco-friendly gear, or simply educating a grom about reef safety creates a ripple effect. When you join organized efforts, your presence adds numbers and energy, showing that surfers care. It’s about the collective vibe. Your conscious choices in and out of the water help shift the culture toward stewardship, ensuring there are always clean waves to ride.

Mastering the Waves

If you’re surfing where it’s proper cold or over sharp reef, they’re non-negotiable, mate. Booties keep your feet warm and give you grip on slippery rocks, while protecting from urchins and reef cuts. Gloves keep your hands functional—you can’t paddle if your fingers are numb! The key is finding a balance between warmth, flexibility, and a thin-enough palm so you can still feel your board. They might feel weird at first, but they unlock sessions you’d otherwise have to skip.

Always surf at a lifeguarded beach when possible. Teach the groms about rip currents—how to spot them and to paddle parallel to shore if caught. The “buddy system” is mandatory. Keep sessions short to avoid exhaustion and hypothermia. Hydrate and re-apply sunscreen constantly. Most importantly, instill the rule: never turn your back on the ocean. A little knowledge and respect go a long way in staying safe.

Pipeline was his backyard playground. That heavy, grinding reef taught him everything about wave reading, commitment, and respect. From grommet days, he was learning in the most powerful, critical surf on earth. That foundation gave him an unreal sense of timing and a fearless approach to any section. When you learn in juice like that, everything else feels a bit more manageable. It built the power that he now takes into his aerial maneuvers.