All Articles

The Art of the Surfari Sleeper Setup: Scoring Waves on a Dollar and a Dream

The Endless Search: How “Morning of the Earth” Redefined the Surf Documentary

How Duke Kahanamoku Carried Surfing to the World

Hobie Alter and the Fiberglass Revolution: How a Shapeshaper Built a Surf Empire

The Subtle Art of Reading the Launch Ramp for Airs

Duke Kahanamoku: The Ambassador of Aloha

Reef-Safe Sunscreen: The Surfer’s Secret to Clean Skin and Cleaner Seas

The Unspoken Paddle-Out: Why Humility is the Only Rule That Matters

The Soul of a Point Break: Finding the Stoke in Malibu

The Stoke of Print: How Surf Magazines Connected the Lineup Before the Digital Dawn

The Zen of the Drop: Why That First Second Defines Everything

The Fine Art of Wax Raking: Why Your Grooves Matter

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What’s The Deal With…?

Surf Culture & Community

First, always control your board. Don’t ditch it and let it fly into others—use your leash! When paddling out, don’t paddle directly through the peak where people are riding; take the channel. Don’t hog waves, especially if you’re just starting. Be aware of your surroundings, apologize if you mess up, and spend time observing the lineup dynamics. It’s all about awareness and respect. Everyone was a beginner once, but being a kook is mostly about attitude.

Totally crucial, dude! For carving, you want a board that holds a rail—something with a defined edge and often a bit more rocker. For airs, you typically want more rocker in the nose and tail to help with the pop off the lip, and lighter construction helps you get airborne. Performance shortboards are built for this. But don’t get too gear-focused; a good surfer can rip on anything. The right board just makes it easier to progress and feel that sweet, sweet release.

Flexibility is key. Use reliable surf forecasts and swell models, but be ready to move. Sometimes the spot you planned for is flat, but a sneaky cove around the corner is firing. Rent a vehicle for mobility. Talk to local surf shop owners—they know the secrets and conditions. Don’t just surf dawn patrol; sometimes the wind switches and the evening glass-off is magic. The goal is to sync your trip with a promising swell window, but be ready to adapt.

Surfboard Evolution

The sun is a total board killer, bro. UV rays break down the chemical bonds in the resin, making it brittle and yellow—this is called “chalking.“ A chalky board loses its strength and watertight seal. The foam inside can also get cooked, leading to delamination (where the fiberglass separates from the foam). Always throw a towel or bag over it on the beach or in the truck. A little shade goes a long way in preserving your favorite plank’s life and pop.

It’s generally super chill and friendly, especially down near the inside section where the groms and beginners hang. Everyone’s out to have a good time. That said, as with any popular spot, it can get a bit crowded when it’s firing. Just remember your surf etiquette—don’t drop in, snake, or hog all the waves. A smile and a bit of patience go a long way. Respect the locals and the pecking order, and you’ll find it’s a pretty mellow crowd sharing the stoke.

Before you even think about dropping in, you gotta conquer the duck dive. It’s your passport through the washing machine. As the whitewater comes, push the nose of your board down deep with your foot and your body, using your knee on the tail. You’re essentially making your board submerge under the wave, not through it. Get this dialed on your shortboard and you’ll save heaps of energy paddling out, leaving you fresh for the set waves. It’s all about smooth, committed pressure.