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That’s the traditional style, brah! Linerless shorts, often from iconic brands, give you that authentic, free-feeling vibe. Many surfers prefer to wear their own compression shorts or briefs underneath for a custom fit. It lets you choose your own support level and makes drying out way faster. It’s a purist choice—less bulk, more flexibility, and a nod to the old-school way of doing things.

It starts before you even paddle out. Study the lineup from the beach, watch where sets are breaking and where the crowd is bunched. Position yourself smartly, not just where everyone else is. Work on your pop-up speed and paddle fitness; stronger paddling means you get to more waves. Don’t be afraid to sit a little wide or on the peak’s shoulder. Most importantly, commit fully when you go—hesitation is the number-one wave killer.

It’s a deep headspace. Many visualize their entire heat—paddling out, wave selection, and maneuvers. They study their opponent’s strengths and weaknesses and have a game plan for the conditions. Breathing exercises are common to manage the nerves. Once the jersey goes on, it’s about flipping the switch from friendly to competitor mode, focusing only on the ocean and their performance. It’s about trusting their training and letting their surfing do the talking.

First, get your equipment dialed. You’ll want a good step-up or even a gun for those bigger, pumping days—it’s not a summer beach break. Respect the locals and the lineup hierarchy; it’s a heavy, fast wave and you need to know what you’re doing. Book your stay in town, maybe at the iconic J-Bay Surf House, and be ready for a wait. The swell is fickle, but when it turns on, it’s all-time. Bring your patience and your A-game for the wave of your life.